And I Thought Traffic in Abu Dhabi was Bad......

I often complain about the bad drivers and daunting traffic in the UAE, but when I stumbled across these videos I realize I was just being a wimp. This is the real deal!

Mumbai (formerly Bombay), India. Not much density here but the way the large trucks, cars, motorcycles, bicycles and pedestrians interact is hypnotic to me. I watched this several times in awe at the cooperation between the different types of transport. Pure impromtu choreography without middle fingers or shakened fists displayed. Everyone just kept moving and dealt with it.

The two videos above are from Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon). The traffic is denser and almost takes on an organic look as if the mass of vehicles are the corpuscles of some large animal. Its almost as like each driver knows what the others are going to do through some understanding of universal unwritten rules. It is lawlessness and anarchy that somehow seems to work without too much bloodshed. I think it is an uniquely Asian thing. Could you imagine this chaos working in the Western world? I can't, we need our traffic lights, signs, cops and turn signals.

And finally Kathmandu, Nepal. I have experienced this personally during  a long weekend there. I hired a driver who deftly navigated the vehicular mayhem without a care in the world. He was in tune and did just fine.. I was in the back seat white-knuckling the grab handle above my head and getting sensory overload from the speed, congestion, horns, exhaust smells and the "coat of paint" proximity to our fellow motorists.

I am of the impression that these are not bad drivers, in fact I envy the skill demonstrated in such a hostile environment. I couldn't do it without a few dented fenders or spearing a moped. I would need a drink after (or before!) a few blocks at the wheel in these places.

On the other hand, some of the drivers in the UAE are just stupid. The roads are first-class here and there are more than a few that look at that as license to drive like maniacs just because they can. They tend to lack the concept of self preservation or responsibility to their potential innocent victims. One example of this is the red light runner captured on the video below, selfish bastard!

Roof of the World Part 2

So we left off with my abbreviated trip to Kathmandu, Nepal. If you recall, I was skunked out of Abu Dhabi and also denied on my first Everest flight in Kathmandu, that meant I would have no sleep and would have to do the Everest flight  at 0630AM on my day of departure. I sat around KTM for 2 hours before they told me the flight was cancelled the first day. I was happy my guide waited and he took me to a good restaurant and bar that afternoon, but I was disappointed I didn't get to fly that morning..

 Enjoying a Nepalese Afternoon

Mmmmm, Everest Beer

Prayer House

Spooky Blue Eyes

Spinning Prayer Wheel in Shrine

No Shortage of Squabs

We did drive around town and saw some awesome Kathmandu sights but I had to have a nap after the long unproductive time at the airport.

The next day, I was up bright and early for my Everest flight. This time it did go.

Departure from Kathmandu Valley

So, we ascended through the soup an soon I saw this:

The Himalayas

The way the tour works is that the flight goes towards Everest and circles while each passenger goes up front in the cockpit to snap a photo.

Everest Peak 

Mt. Everest from the Cockpit

The reason he flights left so early is that the weather gets bad during the summer in the afternoon. I would suggest a fall or winter trip although I am totally happy with my photos as they turned out. A Bucket List item completed!

The flight done , I was dropped off at the hotel to get ready to go. My guide picked me up later and we had lunch downtown. I have to admit we had a tense time at the ATM when he wanted his fee but on later review it seemed fair...I had some "extras". Its not what you think! As a westerner, I was stared at a lot.

Getting the Stink Eye

I stayed at the Everest Hotel and I can honestly say I have never had better service. It is a 5 star hotel and the looked after me like I was a king....all for $70/night. They are highly recommended!

Kathmandu is an interesting city. There didn't seem to be any order to it but it seemed to get along OK. The traffic is atrocious but I didn't see any accidents. Kathmandu is also a quite attractive city, much like some I have seen in Mexico. The architecture was interesting, but the smells were quite pungent mostly due to the motorbikes and cars.

Streetside Roasted Corn was Popular

After my guide dropped me off at the airport, the fun began. To get from outside to my airplane, I had to go through no less than three x-ray screenings and a manual bag search. Most of the shops were closed and us passengers were staged at no fewer than 3 areas, the last being the aircraft itself . It was very uncomfortable. I have never seen security like that. Boarding the aircraft was from stairs. I am no wimp, but it seemed extreme, what about the Nepalese winters? I am not going to stand there in the snow for 20 minutes.

A Tedious Time at Kathmandu Airport, I Spent Way Too Much Time Here

For my Italian Friend....FL

All in all it was a good trip even though it was throttled by overbooked flights and I was cheated out of a day. I got back here to Abu Dhabi on time and that is what counts. Kathmandu  is an interesting city, it seems to be a cross between Asia and India. I want to go back again to sample more of its charms, I did not feel like I had enough time to do that this time.Get a guide, it will save you time and money.  And everyone has to see Mt. Everest in their lifetime, at least I have done that and ticked the box!!

Roof of the World Part 1

Last week, I suddenly found myself with 5 days off in a row. Panic set in as I did not want to sit out the harsh Abu Dhabi summer in my apartment with no plans. It would have driven me crazy!

I always wanted to go to Katmandu, Nepal and I checked the airline loads. It looked good so I booked a flight and hotel. That's when things started to fall apart. I cabbed it to the airport two hours early as required and was promptly told by the gate agent I was not going to go to to KTM that day. The flight was full. Streerike One! I found this strange as there were 15 seats open the day before. I pleaded and begged to no avail. To add salt to the wound, I found out later the flight went out with at least one seat empty.

So I went back to the apartment to try again tomorrow. I got on the flight the next morning but it cost me a day, I would have to compress my visit. The next day I did gt a seat and after a relaxing flight, arrival in Kathmandu went smoothly, immigration was a breeze! Once outside the airport I was attacked by a swarm  of taxi drivers and I chose one because he seemed to have the best car. On the way, he offered his services as a guide, more on that later.

I was dropped off at my hotel and was pleasantly surprised at the level of luxury and customer service my eyes-closed choice had been. They couldn't have been better! The Everest Hotel. I unpacked and went to the 7th floor bar and enjoyed a double Jim Beam on the rocks to admire the view of the Kathmandu Valley. Sadly, I broke an eye tooth on a peanut up there which,as you can imagine put a damper on my excitement.
Steeeerike 2

I booked a Mt. Everest sightseeing flight the next day (0630 departure) so I went to bed early, My guide dutifully showed up on time and I was ready. At the airport, I checked in and proceeded to the waiting area and sat....and sat....and sat. Finally I asked about the status of the flight and was told it was cancelled quite some time ago. Dammit....! I walked out into the parking and was happy to see my guide and car still there. I told him it was an abort today and I needed to return to the hotel for some shut eye and he could pick me up later that evening. Streeerike 3!

Cancelled Flight

So this trip is not going well, two airline bumps and a broken tooth, There is a lot more to come! Watch for part 2!